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Welcome to the Plastering Tips Page
The purpose of this site is to
provide tips for Restoring, Renovating and General Property Repair Tips. I hope I have made this site unique.
The concept is that each page has a unique topic. I provide 10 tips on
each subject then I have invited you the reader to supply your own tips to
add to the list ... in a 'Post Your Comment Box'. I have called this
posting comments for Restoring Property - RANT or RAVE. As the title
suggests you can post good ideas and ideas that certainly don't work! I
hope you enjoy...
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PLASTERING TIPS - General Advice
Here we have a few basic tips. Follow the
links in the side navigation to see our full lists.
1. No more wooden frames against walls! This
use to be the old fashioned way. Today there is a special adhesive so the
plaster board is glued straight up to the wall. By putting big blobs of
glue on the reverse of the plasterboard, you just place the board up to
the wall and bingo, the job is done. But there is a technique to getting them parallel and
flush. Pay the most attention to your first board. If you get this one
right the rest will flow and match; get the first one wrong and the whole
job will become a disaster zone.
2. Plaster boards to ceilings! Normally a
nightmare. Two people stood on chairs, balancing a huge plasterboard,
dropping one in three to the floor. That's the DIY method unless you know
what you are doing. Hire a machine that raises the board up from a working
level up to the ceiling. Use a 'hire-it' type shop, the cost is minimal.
What you pay out on the hire charges you'll save on plaster board
breakages.
3. Another tip for plasterboards to
ceilings. Instead of the normal galvanised nails, use plaster board
screws. These work best for ceilings and offer better secure boards,
especially as people walking on the floor above can soon help to loosen
them.
4. A typical scenario for the DIY person is
to fix a plaster board panel and if it isn't right straight away we can
correct it later when we plaster. Avoid accepting this as an answer. Pull
the board back down and cut it to the right shape.
5. 2 Tips for the trowel. When purchasing a
trowel the edges are usually square, file down the square edges and make
them round. Nothing too major, just round them off. Plus the four edges
need to be sharpened. Use emery paper or a pumice stone. The reason for
this is to maximise the flow and tilt of your trowel as you apply the
plaster.
6. Patching a large hole. Rather than trying
to plaster a large hole; in other words a large area of plaster that has
either fallen off or cracked. Measure a neat square or rectangle over and
around the hole, using a ready cut piece of plaster board. Once marked
off, trim away all the excess plaster. Place the ready cut and trimmed
plaster board and secure in position with screw cleats. Plaster over newly
inserted plasterboard; and find the finish plastering quality so much
easier to achieve.
7. Adjusting setting times for smaller
plaster jobs. Most
patching is best done with a cornice adhesive, as this dries in minutes.
The plaster will also speed up its drying process when salt is added. The
quantity of salt depends on the size of the job. But for a small job that
needs about a third of a bucket of plaster will need about a tablespoon of
salt... Or a generous sprinkle. The salt is best used for coats one or
two, but not normally on the top plaster coat.
8. Repairing a crack in plaster. Trim the
plaster back around the crack, so the seating area is firm for the first
coat of plaster. Wet brush the area and remove anything loose. Again here
you could use the cornice adhesive in the mix for the lower coats. Any
first and second coats should not extend beyond the crack itself.
Depending on the size of the crack it may be better using a jointing life.
Coats one and two don't need to look pretty, just functional. Apply the
top coat as with any top coat.
9. Plasterboards should in theory be at least
10mm from the floor. This is to avoid any damp coming from the floor as
plaster boards soak up damp like blotting paper.
10. When using plasterboard adhesive don't
apply it to the board until you are ready to go... The adhesive quickly
gets a skin and then it doesn't bond.
This information is provided as a
courtesy only...
Neither RestoringPropertyTips.com nor any other party involved in the
preparation, publication or distribution of this information makes any
representation or warranty, express or implied, that this information
contains all provisions that may be appropriate or necessary to address
the specific interests of a landlord, tenant or owners of property.
COMMENTS...
Here's a quick tip... When using galvanised nails to secure plasterboards
around doorways and floor areas; always keep to the edge of the board. In
doing this you will cover the nail heads with the architrave or skirting
board.
Jem, Majorca
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Galvanised nail popping... If you break the plaster board paper with a
nail, put another nail immediately next to it. This will avoid nail
popping.
Simon, Cork
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Plasterboard is manufactured with heavy paper lining filled with a gypsum
core. To cut these it is best to cut them stood up rather than laying
down. Pierce the heavy paper with a trimming knife and the core filling
will break cum snap along the cut.
Dom, Chicago
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Before taping plasterboard joins, if any are over 5mm, fill them in as
you'll always need a firm base otherwise the plaster will crack along a
weak join. Don't rely on the tape to be the base for plaster!
Allan, Cardiff
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